lunedì 11 novembre 2013

CERRUTI pour FEMME (1987)


raiders of the lost scent


raiders of the lost scent
from Parfumo.net


Year: 1987
Top notes: coriander, bergamot, plum; 
Middle notes: carnation, jasmine, ylang-ylang, tuberose, rose, honey; 
Base notes: vetiver, musk, sandalwood, oakmoss, cedar, vanille.
Longevity: at least 7 hrs. Sillage: very high.
Rating: 9.5/10

ABSTRACT Sadly discontinued -and very hard to find now at decent prices- it was considered by connoisseurs as a luxury alternative for Dior's Poison (1985); but at the same time it was considered -by detractors- only as an elegant "spin-off" from Clandestine (by Guy Laroche, 1986) 
In any case, luxury and elegance were qualities typical of "Cerruti pour Femme" (1987).

Very feminine and persistant, with enormous sillage, as almost every "powerhouses" during the '80s, Cerruti was a magnificent scent already in the presentation. Packaged wonderfully in a box recalling the "Cretto" paintings by artist Alberto Burri, with additional casting of black and golden paint; poured in an asymmetrical bottle as a sort of glass sculpture; with a "stem"-type spray plunging directly into the bottle; and with a lot of attention for details. 
"Cerruti pour femme" was a great scent.High quality ingredients, floral middle notes very intense, an infinite drydown. A sumptuous perfume, lost in the memory, to be discovered and appreciated again.
  

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Fuori produzione -e oggi difficile da trovare- veniva considerato dagli estimatori, all'epoca, come una alternativa "raffinata" di Poison di Christian Dior; dai detrattori, invece, come la copia "elegante" di Clandestine di Guy Laroche (uscito per primo sul mercato l'anno precedente, e quindi da considerare l'originale). 
In ogni caso, raffinatezza ed eleganza erano due qualità che a "Cerruti pour Femme" (1987) certo non mancavano. 
Femminile, persistentissimo, come da tradizione dei powerhouses Anni  '80, era un profumo già magnifico fin dalla presentazione.
Curatissimo nella confezione, con scatola meravigliosa che richiamava alla mente i "Cretti" dell'artista Alberto Burri, con colate aggiuntive di vernice d'oro e nero lucido; flacone asimmetrico a mò di scultura in vetro; vaporizzatore tipo "stem" che si immergeva nel flacone, e anche una cura dei dettagli insolita, riscontrabile più nei profumi di nicchia (ancor da venire) che nei profumi mainstream. 
Piramide olfattiva molto ampia, una parte centrale fioritissima con accenti di gelsomino, tuberosa e rosa particolarmente persistenti. Drydown infinito, come nella miglior tradizione dell'epoca. 
Valeva assai di più di quanto sembrasse allora: oggi è un profumo sontuoso, barocco, da riscoprire. 


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